Quote:
Originally Posted by kunlun
There's a smart way and a not smart way to understand this.
The smart way is that Laurent Ferrier and his design team are great watchmakers and came up with a movement with a natural f'ing escapement, which they then worked with La Frabrique de Temps to manufacture the mainplates and bridges, etc. and then highly finish and assemble at LF. It's possible the movement is based on a tested foundation of a movement ebauche from LFdT but expertly adapted for a natural f'ing escapement which is a huge achievement and then highly finished, assembled, etc.
The not smart way to understand is that Laruent waddles into La Frabrique du Temps showroom and points to a generic movement pre-made by them, with no work done by him whatsoever. Obviously, no one here would think that and we're not seeing kickstarter brands with generic movements bought from LFdT with a natural f'ing escapement. That would be cool, though.
|
Great perspective and I agree that people should develop a very well informed and rounded view based on their own experiences and perspective. When it comes to indies some of the newer collectors can be prone to buying into the marketing and then building a very one directional view and not being open to constructive input.
All brands have strengths and weaknesses. In the case of LF - Laurent was a very well respected senior employee at Patek and created a good brand and vision. However this vision has changed over time as the company has needed to become profitable in order to survive (and at one point this was a very very acute issue).
To my knowledge LF do not have any additional streams of revenue which as supplying components, dials, cases etc as some of the more commercially minded indies such as Voutilainen, Journe, Gauthier etc.
As a result my view is that they have been forced to dilute the brand by a) making too many special editions - collectors editions, retailer editions, one of ones, etc they have made so many they the concept of special editions is now diluted (they even have an internal process that is set up to make these special orders) to the level of some of the Richemont brands such as Panerai etc. b) the movements are outsourced and this is something that they are not entirely transparent on. They do refinish in house etc but again this is very different to the concept of the watch being made in house. C) finish and build quality is not at the level of others such as Voutilainen or Gauthier and I have personally compared all of them in the flesh. The finishing is good and almost at the level of Lange but it’s far from perfect and I’ve seen a number off issues and flaws that I wouldn’t be happy about if it was my own watch.
Rather than running the risk of having a myopic view based on a strong affinity to one brand - I would recommend any collector to educate themselves, try the watches on, speak with other collectors and meet the figureheads of each of the brands (ideally along with a visit to the manufacture).
The world of indies is very opaque and nuanced and not everything is as it first seems. It is very difficult to create a manufacture that is truely integrated and impossible to avoid the use of CNC machined parts, even the design of the movements is outsourced by a lot of brands.
I myself have learnt a lot from some of the very smart and well established collectors (brand marketing, articles from respected watch joirnalists etc are prone to conflicts or littered with factual inaccuracies) and fully respect their views and different perspectives. Its very dangerous to patronise others without having any appreciation of their level of diligence or expertise.
Anyone thinking about LF should really consider all of their options at that price point before making a decision. The secondary market can also be an additional source of intelligence / indication of the and demand dynamic for each of the brands.