Oyster Bracelet Mini Links?? Fitment Issues.

[Freshly206]

I bought a Ceramic Submariner a couple years ago from Rolex in SF and it has never fit quite perfectly. I have a skinny wrist and the watch naturally sits a bit off center due to where the clasp sits. I have taken it to Rolex a couple times to take links off and on, stacking more on one side than the other. Every time I do that it is either too big or too small. I am basically just in-between sizes (yes I know it has the adjustment feature but at the perfect fitment one side needs to be a bit longer).

There is a part of the band, where it attaches to the clasp, that has a mini or half sized link. I think adding a mini link to one side will fix my issue.

Does anyone know where I would find one?

Thanks!




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[stylinleems]

Ask your AD to order you the half-link for the Submariner (part # 32-21029). You might have to provide the serial number to the Sub for them to order it and it should be around $70.

[Freshly206]

Originally Posted by stylinleems

Ask your AD to order you the half-link for the Submariner (part # 32-21029). You might have to provide the serial number to the Sub for them to order it and it should be around $70.

Awesome, thanks for the reply! I will get in touch with my dealer.

Have other people had this issue? I’m trying to figure out if extending, or reducing one side (depending on how I utilize the half-link) would be effective.


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[stylinleems]

Originally Posted by Freshly206

Awesome, thanks for the reply! I will get in touch with my dealer.

Have other people had this issue? I’m trying to figure out if extending, or reducing one side (depending on how I utilize the half-link) would be effective.


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I have small wrists as well. On my Submariner 6 o'clock side, I have 4 full links and 12 o'clock I have 4.5 with the glide lock almost at its tightest setting (2nd from end) and it fits me perfectly.

The clasp is somewhat centred on the back of my wrist and I'm okay with it. Can't get it exactly I don't think.

[JohnnyBer]

Do you mean an additional half link? Your sub should have come with a half link on the 12:00 side. Move it to the 6:00 side and remove a full link. I did this with my SD4K (3.5 links on the 6:00) and it worked perfectly. Good luck!

[Freshly206]

Originally Posted by stylinleems

I have small wrists as well. On my Submariner 6 o'clock side, I have 4 full links and 12 o'clock I have 4.5 with the glide lock almost at its tightest setting (2nd from end) and it fits me perfectly.

The clasp is somewhat centred on the back of my wrist and I'm okay with it. Can't get it exactly I don't think.

Where is the micro adjustment at with this setup??


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[Crazy Lugs]

There’s some very good six-digit Sub bracelet sizing information in this recent thread:

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=749109

[Freshly206]

Originally Posted by JohnnyBer

Do you mean an additional half link? Your sub should have come with a half link on the 12:00 side. Move it to the 6:00 side and remove a full link. I did this with my SD4K (3.5 links on the 6:00) and it worked perfectly. Good luck!

Yeah I meant an additional half link but now that you mention it, it definitely makes more sense just to move the half link over instead of buying another one

I was just at Rolex today and I asked them to “balance” it, like it was when I first bought it. Now that I look at it tho it doesn’t look balanced at all, unless I hold it up closed... Here is what they did:

12:00 - 6.5
6:00 - 4




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[Crazy Lugs]

Originally Posted by Freshly206

Yeah I meant an additional half link but now that you mention it, it definitely makes more sense just to move the half link over instead of buying another one

I was just at Rolex today and I asked them to “balance” it, like it was when I first bought it. Now that I look at it tho it doesn’t look balanced at all, unless I hold it up closed... Here is what they did:

12:00 - 6.5
6:00 - 4
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It ain’t supposed to be “balanced” per se with regard to number of links. I run 4/5.5 and in the thread I shared above, another guy mentioned really liking the 4/6.5 combo for his 6-1/2” wrist.

Everybody’s different and these Glidelock bracelets are a pain in the ass to nail the fitment without a lot of trial and error, especially if your wrist is flat in shape. Those with chubby round wrists have it easy...

[Freshly206]

Originally Posted by Crazy Lugs

It ain’t supposed to be “balanced” per se with regard to number of links. I run 4/5.5 and in the thread I shared above, another guy mentioned really liking the 4/6.5 combo for his 6-1/2” wrist.



Everybody’s different and these Glidelock bracelets are a pain in the ass to nail the fitment without a lot of trial and error, especially if your wrist is flat in shape. Those with chubby round wrists have it easy...

Lol Those damn round-wristers’

I think your definitely correct about that. I do have a flat wrist and the thick oyster links don’t do us any favors.

The hardest part about this process has been the Glidelock. It adds an entirely new dimension to the fitment. “If I take a link off this side, put it on the other side and fully extend the glidelock, the clasp should move further to the right and be centered on my wrist”... it gets confusing in a hurry.

I keep thinking I can make up for the removal or addition of a link by extending or shortening the glidelock. When I have done that everything gets screwed up.


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[gmtln]

I think you nailed it when you said the glidelock clasp adds to the difficulty of getting the right adjustment.
Alot of people will recommend certain set ups for your bracelet, ie. 4 links on 6oclock 5 links on 12oclock. But then how you set your glidelock to fit your wrist opens up a while new set of combos as it in effect adds or removes links to the 12oclock side.

I guess it is more a case of trial and error.
Probably best to invest in a hollow ground screwdriver and start adjusting the bracelet yourself to find the sweet spot, will save a lot more time and hassle than taking it to your AD.

[Freshly206]

Originally Posted by gmtln

I think you nailed it when you said the glidelock clasp adds to the difficulty of getting the right adjustment.
Alot of people will recommend certain set ups for your bracelet, ie. 4 links on 6oclock 5 links on 12oclock. But then how you set your glidelock to fit your wrist opens up a while new set of combos as it in effect adds or removes links to the 12oclock side.

I guess it is more a case of trial and error.
Probably best to invest in a hollow ground screwdriver and start adjusting the bracelet yourself to find the sweet spot, will save a lot more time and hassle than taking it to your AD.

Yeah that’s a good call. I was actually looking at 1.6mm screwdrivers online earlier. My only concern is a screw coming out randomly because I didn’t do it correctly. I’ve watched some YouTube videos on how to do it, but every time I have relied on YouTube to teach me how to do something technical it ends up in disaster.

Unfortunately, I think doing it myself is probably the only way to fit it perfectly. After my last 2 adjustments at the local AD I think they are getting tired of me. Lol

It also doesn’t seem like local AD’s are very knowledgeable at the type of fine tuning we are talking about. The AD’s seem to do a standard fit and call it a day w/o measuring the wrist and fine tuning the fit like I am looking for.


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[lord91]

Here are some photos from various angles of how the clasp sits on my 7" flat wrist. Also the shape of my wrist is narrower on the 6 oc side, as opposed to the more rounded 12 oc side.

I have 4 links on 6oc and 4.5 on 12oc. Glidelock still has one or two notches visible for tightening, depending on how i feel my wrist; currently being set with only one notch left. This is so far the best fit for me, the watch sits snug, centred and i can move the wrist with all the comfort in the world. Obviously that when you wear a watch in hot climate, after sweating a lot underneath, it will slide towards the palm eventually. That's just physics.

Other fitments i used were 4 on 6oc - 5.5 on 12oc (it hurt my wrist, felt like i was going to snap the bracelet, as the GL, which was siting centred, was running over my tendons, case was pulling left or right and to the 12oc side), 5 and 5.5 - watch was loose, 5 on 6oc - 4.5 on 12 oc (the most comfortable fit for the case, but the GL was sitting wrong, on the side of the wrist). The only fit i didn't try is 4 on 6oc and 5 on 12oc. This would centre the GL more but might not be as comfy as it is now.

Now with the pics, hope they'll help you with finding your fit. One advise, do take a look from various angles, as the GL will sit a bit differently depending on how you twist your wrist for viewing it.

[Freshly206]

Originally Posted by lord91

Here are some photos from various angles of how the clasp sits on my 7" flat wrist. Also the shape of my wrist is narrower on the 6 oc side, as opposed to the more rounded 12 oc side.

I have 4 links on 6oc and 4.5 on 12oc. Glidelock still has one or two notches visible for tightening, depending on how i feel my wrist; currently being set with only one notch left. This is so far the best fit for me, the watch sits snug, centred and i can move the wrist with all the comfort in the world. Obviously that when you wear a watch in hot climate, after sweating a lot underneath, it will slide towards the palm eventually. That's just physics.

Other fitments i used were 4 on 6oc - 5.5 on 12oc (it hurt my wrist, felt like i was going to snap the bracelet, as the GL, which was siting centred, was running over my tendons, case was pulling left or right and to the 12oc side), 5 and 5.5 - watch was loose, 5 on 6oc - 4.5 on 12 oc (the most comfortable fit for the case, but the GL was sitting wrong, on the side of the wrist). The only fit i didn't try is 4 on 6oc and 5 on 12oc. This would centre the GL more but might not be as comfy as it is now.

Now with the pics, hope they'll help you with finding your fit. One advise, do take a look from various angles, as the GL will sit a bit differently depending on how you twist your wrist for viewing it.

Awesome! This is perfect, thank you!

I just got it resizes by the local AD and it is currently sitting at 4@6 and 6.5@12. With the glidelock fully tightened, it sits snug against my wrist but not too tight. At this setting the clasp seems to fit in the middle of my wrist but I can’t tighten it at all. So I think 4@6 is good but I can’t get the 12 figured out.

Currently my glidelock is fully tightened, do you think if I removed an entire link from the 12-o’clock side I will still have some room on either side of the glidelock or should I just remove a half link?


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[lord91]

Originally Posted by Freshly206

Awesome! This is perfect, thank you!

I just got it resizes by the local AD and it is currently sitting at 4@6 and 6.5@12. With the glidelock fully tightened, it sits snug against my wrist but not too tight. At this setting the clasp seems to fit in the middle of my wrist but I can’t tighten it at all. So I think 4@6 is good but I can’t get the 12 figured out.

Currently my glidelock is fully tightened, do you think if I removed an entire link from the 12-o’clock side I will still have some room on either side of the glidelock or should I just remove a half link?


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Don't overthink it with centering the clasp, this also has to do with how your wrist is shaped. You may end up with it centred but the watch sitting completely off. It is important not to have the clasp overriding the edges of your wrist, to sit inbetween them.

Since you have the GL at its tightest, with all the links at 12oc, you would definitely gain some room for adjustment if you choose to take off one link or the half link.

[JR16]

Sizing any watch including SubC is very personal and trial-and-error. I would Recc finding your ideal fit w the clasp in the middle position so you can make small adjustments as your wrist swells/contracts. With a half link you should be able to find your ideal set-up. If you get a second half link, I think it would be impossible not to find a set-up that fits. And if you have a small wrist, just bc you have a properly sized Bracelet doesn’t mean the watch will fit you well. The SubC is a big 40mm watch w relatively flat case.
If it helps any, I have a 6.75 inch wrist and have 5.5 links on 12 o’clock side and 4 links on 4 o’clock side.
I would def get yourself a nice 1.7mm screwdriver so you can make your own adjustments- it’s super easy and I’ve never had a screw loosen on its own.

People on TRF, including myself, seem
To like the Horofix screwdriver:

https://www.esslinger.com/horofix-ge...djusting-tool/


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[Freshly206]

Yeah I agree, I will probably remove the half link from the 12-o’clock to start. The clasp positioning should be controlled by the 6-o’clock length. It’s pretty good right now so I’ll leave it at 4 on that side.

You’d think the AD would be able to sit down with me and do all of this to properly fit it.

Getting a screwdriver is a good call. What sealant do you use for the screws??


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[Tools]

Originally Posted by Freshly206

. . . I am basically just in-between sizes (yes I know it has the adjustment feature but at the perfect fitment one side needs to be a bit longer).

. . .

One side is almost always longer than the other side. If your criteria is that both sides need to be the same, you will likely never have a comfortable, correct, fit.

[Bigblu10]

7.5 inch wrist here. Have the factory setup on my gold Sub. 5 links on the 6. 7 links on the 12. Glide lock all the way in.

[Crazy Lugs]

Originally Posted by Freshly206

Yeah I agree, I will probably remove the half link from the 12-o’clock to start. The clasp positioning should be controlled by the 6-o’clock length. It’s pretty good right now so I’ll leave it at 4 on that side.

You’d think the AD would be able to sit down with me and do all of this to properly fit it.

Getting a screwdriver is a good call. What sealant do you use for the screws??


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Loctite 222- use just a tiny drop on female side of link via toothpick.

The above mentioned flat ground driver is great, speaking from experience.

If you decide to do this on your own, please take your time and use masking tape if you’re worried about errant scratches. Make sure the watch head is properly supported. Please don’t over-torque the screws. They are meant to stop when hand tight, and each screw should stay with the link it came from.

[Freshly206]

Originally Posted by Crazy Lugs

Loctite 222- use just a tiny drop on female side of link via toothpick.



The above mentioned flat ground driver is great, speaking from experience.



If you decide to do this on your own, please take your time and use masking tape if you’re worried about errant scratches. Make sure the watch head is properly supported. Please don’t over-torque the screws. They are meant to stop when hand tight, and each screw should stay with the link it came from.

That’s great advice. I’m still undecided if I’ll give it a shot or not. In theory it’s relatively simple but the downside is really high. Last thing I want is a screw to come out when I’m diving or something. I’ll do some more research and watch some more YouTube videos before I decide.

What do i use to hold the watch in place? I’ve seen people use a vice but that looks super sketch lol


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[Crazy Lugs]

Originally Posted by Freshly206

That’s great advice. I’m still undecided if I’ll give it a shot or not. In theory it’s relatively simple but the downside is really high. Last thing I want is a screw to come out when I’m diving or something. I’ll do some more research and watch some more YouTube videos before I decide.

What do i use to hold the watch in place? I’ve seen people use a vice but that looks super sketch lol


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https://www.esslinger.com/watch-band-holders/

I think it comes down to how often you think you might be doing this. It’s not difficult at all. The only thing to keep in mind is to stay calm and be careful not to force anything.

[Freshly206]

Originally Posted by Crazy Lugs

https://www.esslinger.com/watch-band-holders/



I think it comes down to how often you think you might be doing this. It’s not difficult at all. The only thing to keep in mind is to stay calm and be careful not to force anything.

Oh. My. God.... I just got out of the shower and my watch caught on my towel. I look down and see this... THIS WAS JUST ADJUSTED BY AN AD IN SAN DIEGO




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[iTreelex]

What a roller coaster this thread is. OP I think you're overthinking this. Your wrist is fine given you have a 4/6 ratio on your watch. I have 4/4.5 on my sd4k given my 6.5" wrist. The submariner has so many adjustment variations I find it hard to believe you won't get a good fit. Also having it resized here and there, you're bound to have something like that happen. Hope you get it fixed and put a dab of loctite on it.

[Freshly206]

Originally Posted by iTreelex

What a roller coaster this thread is. OP I think you're overthinking this. Your wrist is fine given you have a 4/6 ratio on your watch. I have 4/4.5 on my sd4k given my 6.5" wrist. The submariner has so many adjustment variations I find it hard to believe you won't get a good fit. Also having it resized here and there, you're bound to have something like that happen. Hope you get it fixed and put a dab of loctite on it.

I’m not overthinking it, I just find this topic interesting and I enjoy tuning things.

It doesn’t look like any loctite was even applied. It’s almost like the AD just wanted to get it done quickly and didn’t put any on. I’d hope they wouldn’t do something like that but I don’t know how a screw falls out like that a couple days after getting it adjusted.


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[Rocket_Man]

Originally Posted by Freshly206

I’m not overthinking it, I just find this topic interesting and I enjoy tuning things.

It doesn’t look like any loctite was even applied. It’s almost like the AD just wanted to get it done quickly and didn’t put any on. I’d hope they wouldn’t do something like that but I don’t know how a screw falls out like that a couple days after getting it adjusted.


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I usually don't put loctite on these screws either. If the watch is new enough there will be enough factory thread locker still in the female side and on the male threads. If the screw is seated firmly (but not over tighten) I've never had a screw back out.

The most important thing about sizing your own bracelet is to use the right tools, especially the screw driver. The Esslinger screw driver fits about as perfectly as any screw driver I've tried and that will minimize any chance of dorking up the screw slot. Using a too small screw driver, or one that is too narrow can cause issues. Also, hit the thread end with a lighter for 3-5 seconds and let the heat warm up the locktite. Apply even turning pressure to loosen the screw. Don't put too much torque, hit it with some more heat and the screw will come out with firm turning pressure.

When tightening, remember not to over tighten. You are not installing lug nuts. The screws don't stay in place by torquing them. They are not really screws in that sense, they are more like pins with a threaded end. That is why a thread locker is important to keep it in place.

This screw that backed out could have been a result of getting thread locker in the shaft of the link and the flexing of the bracelet can back it out. If you had the right screw driver this is an easy fix.

After you resize a link, always run your fingers on the end of the bracelet after you wear it to feel if any have backed out.

[Crazy Lugs]

Having just adjusted my bracelet Sunday night, I will recommend to use the tiniest drop of Loctite in the female end of the link. I think I had some excess dried thread lock upstream of the threads from a previous resizing, and it made it difficult to remove the pin, even though it was free of the threads. The tolerances are very tight, and the dried excess made them even tighter.

[Freshly206]

Do you guys think I should just do it myself as opposed to taking it back to the AD? This was the exact issue I was concerned about doing it myself lol


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[Tools]

Originally Posted by Freshly206

Do you guys think I should just do it myself as opposed to taking it back to the AD? This was the exact issue I was concerned about doing it myself lol

Depends on your skill-set.

If you don't know which end of a screwdriver to stick in the slot, perhaps you should let somebody else do the job.

On a degree of difficulty scale of one to 10, this one would be just slightly above a one.