Day-Date 128239 vs 118239

[sigma089]

Hi guys,

I'm currently in the market for a silver dial 36mm WG Day-Date. I've been collecting watches for more than 15 years. My collection currently consists of a few Grand Seikos, a vintage 5513 and a Patek 5164a. I want to scale it down to ideally 4-6 pieces max. Will let go all but one GS (quartz beater SBGN003), but will keep my 5513 and 5164a.

I'm debating if I should buy the DD new from an AD or go second hand (serviced full set or NOS 2006+). I want solid mid links and a bracelet less impacted by stretch, so figured 118239 or 128239 are my best choice. Personally I like the Roman numbers around the minute track on the 118239 more than the current rather dull silver dial (imo), but not to an extent that it does sway me towards the 118239 fully.

I'm in the EU and reckon I would be able to get a 118239 in very good condition for about 10k less than a brand new 128239.

To me that's a significant amount. Is the premium worth it? Any significant improvements on the new one vs. the older one? I'm aware of the new movement, but I'm under the impression that it hasn't been improved significantly. Other than that I don't really see any benefit in going with the brand new one, especially since the AD SA, I was speaking to about purchasing a new 128239, was clear that they do not do bundles (Bucherer - would have liked a Starbucks, but who wouldn't ;)).

What's your recommendation?


A little more context:

Apart from the 5513 I do not have a Rolex in my collection and haven't bought one from an AD so far. I have a very good relationship with my Patek AD, but apart from PP he does not have anything I'm interested in anymore. So no relationship to a Rolex AD whatsoever, apart from a few friendly chats the last few years (incl. AD quoted above).

From my recent discussion with an SA at the AD above I did not get the impression that I would get a real benefit from purchasing a DD from them, when I registered my interest. What's your experience regarding PM watches in this regard? Will this put me on the fast track to a Starbucks, Daytona or similar, or does it not really matter anymore?

I've been on the list for a silver DJ for more than two years now with them (yes, ridiculous, but it is what it is atm) and of course there certainly is no shortage in potential buyers (incl. PM) atm. They acknowledged my aparent genuine interest in collecting when I wore my PP last time I visited, but it wasn't like they called me the next week offering me a DD or DJ. ;)

So what would you do? Buy a new 128239, eat a potential 10k loss, or save 10k and go the used route? Would really appreciate your insights if a DD purchase from AD will benefit me in the long run.

[sigma089]

TLDR: Does anyone know if the new 36mm DDs are more resistant to stretch? Did they include ceramic pins in the new president bracelets to mitigate this issue? Do 11823X have issues with stretch?

Thanks!

[Yas.2k]

Oh wow. What a position to be in that you have a good relationship with a patek AD. It’s virtually impossible here.

[jgottsman11]

118239 doesn’t have ceramic pins like 128239 in the bracelet. Also the 118239 has softer lugs than the sharper 128239