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4 January 2010, 03:27 AM | #31 | |
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4 January 2010, 03:45 AM | #32 |
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Fortunately many fakes have that dumb clear back which makes it very easy to see the fake movement! Dah!!!
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4 January 2010, 02:03 PM | #33 |
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My head is smoking. TMI for my little noggin....
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4 January 2010, 02:19 PM | #34 | |
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5 September 2010, 01:59 AM | #35 |
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Old post, new question. Does anyone know if the above applies to a 16520 with a 4030 movement?
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5 September 2010, 02:04 AM | #36 |
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If you shake it and there's a whole lot of rotor noise coming from the movement, then it either fake, or it has some problems
Only use this technique on models manufactured after 1980, because some older GENUINE rolexes do have rotor noise. |
5 September 2010, 02:08 AM | #37 |
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9 September 2010, 08:23 PM | #38 | ||
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wow! post number 1! Hi All!!!! |
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10 September 2010, 06:53 AM | #39 |
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Both the 3000 movement and the 3035 movement operate opposite the new models... But, it's generally the newer models that are being pushed to the masses as genuine...
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10 September 2010, 08:40 AM | #40 | |
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Seriously - Good info. Thanks!
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13 September 2010, 11:17 AM | #41 |
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As does the 4030 movement in the 16520. It also has a noisy rotor (which I experienced first hand and was confirmed as a 'trade' for the El Primero movement on the forum)
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21 September 2010, 01:37 PM | #42 |
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Here are some of the ways I can spot a fake before opening the case. Some were mentioned earlier. This pertains to the modern Rolex models.
Noisy autowinding rotor - Fake. Crown not centered with crown guards - sits low (posteriorly) - Fake. Glass has blue/green tinge when viewed on edge - Fake (not sapphire). Date starts to change at 11:00 - Fake. Bezel clicks should be two per minute marker (120 per full rotation) for a Sub (GMT IIc has one click per hour marker). If not - Fake. Cyclops magnification is small (1.5x) - Fake (should be about 2.5x). Listen to the "ticks" - about 2 per second? - Fake (Modern Rolex has 8 beats per second). Large pearl on bezel - Fake. Maxi dial and hands on pre-ceramic Sub - likely Fake. Shape of oyster case - the back of the case is often flatter on a Fake. Look at the quality of the stamping of the Coronet on the bracelet. If it looks illdefined, i.e. the fingers of the crown meld together, likely a Fake. Triple-lock crown seems finicky to operate - Fake. The first Rolex I bought was a Fake Rolex I purchased in China as a souvenir. Now I know what to look for. I really appreciate my real Rolex's now. But beware, the counterfeiters are learning and getting better all the time. |
22 September 2010, 03:16 AM | #43 |
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You can also see if it has the "hacking" feature. Very few fakes I know of have it. When you pull the stem out to set the time, the second hand will stop if it is not an old Rolex.
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1 October 2010, 03:41 PM | #44 |
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Wow nice topic. Does anybody know how the hands of a lady datejust (1984) 2135 move when the crown is turned clockwise?
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21 October 2010, 06:24 PM | #45 |
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All these things you guys mention about date flipping and saphire crystals and bezel clicks is fine if you are looking at a $35 fake Rolex that you buy off the street in New York. NONE of these apply to the high end replicas coming out of some of these chinese factories in the last year or so that cost upwards of $500+. Even the movements are getting copied now so watch out. And not just stickers on the rotors anymore but fully engraved copies of the 3135 with red wheels and exact rotor. Ive seen them in china so i know they exist. Ive even seen exact copies of Kawasaki motorcycle dirtbikes right down to the last nut and bolt for 1/5 of the cost of the real one. I guess when you dont have to pay for R&D and your workers make $6 a day, you can make items a lot cheaper than the orig manufacturer.
But yes i do agree that a Rolex movement has more of a metalic sounding ping than an ETA movement does. When in doubt, take it to a Rolex dealer to have it checked. |
22 October 2010, 05:36 AM | #46 | |
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26 October 2010, 03:10 AM | #47 | |
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Also the sweeping second doesnt seem perfectly smooths, looks like its moving like 3 times/second. Is this normal? |
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26 October 2010, 05:01 AM | #48 | |
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Just double checked and the cal. 1570 is 19800 bph. |
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26 October 2010, 05:09 AM | #49 | |
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I have another question about watches this old (1981), I just tried the watch in darkness and I could hardly see the time, can the luminous paint "get old"? It has a very fade glow. |
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26 October 2010, 05:48 AM | #50 |
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Do fakes ever have a laser etched crown on the crystal?
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26 October 2010, 06:12 AM | #51 |
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Your watch uses tritium which will decrease in brightness over time. At this point I would think most of the luminescence is gone.
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27 October 2010, 01:57 AM | #52 |
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I just tried to count the bpm on my watch and I counted 324 which equals 19440 bph. :)
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28 October 2010, 03:27 AM | #53 |
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Can anyone confirm which way a 5513 sub reacts to a clockwise turn of the crown?
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28 October 2010, 03:34 AM | #54 |
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Confused? I guess my wife's ladies YM sold by an AD i a fake ....
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7 November 2014, 04:46 AM | #55 | |
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The "cloning" factories have adressed the lower crown position that would indicate the use of an eta or sw movement several years ago. And cases that will employ both the eta/sellita and genuine 31XX movements have been circulating in the markets for at least 5 years that I know of. As has been mentioned ( and yes I realize this is a very old thread and thought I might "update" it a bit) the only way to be SURE is to crack it open and have a look. And even then you need to "really" know what you're looking at as the cloning of the 28,800 vph, 31XX movement has come a "long" way. |
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7 November 2014, 01:05 PM | #56 |
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fakes
Yes seen many with it.
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6 January 2015, 03:04 AM | #57 |
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6 January 2015, 08:14 AM | #58 |
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It's probably not really done with a laser on the fakes...
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7 January 2015, 07:32 AM | #59 | ||
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