<40mm Dress Watches - GMT / Dual Time / Home Time / Travel Time Options?

[CasinoRoyale_007]

Firstly, apologies if this is in the wrong forum. Took a look across the various subforums and thought this was the best place to post given what I am looking at - mods, please kindly move if I got it wrong! I also posted this on WUS, but I want to ask the very knowledgeable people here as well.
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I am looking for a <=40mm dress or dressy watch (but nothing smaller than 36-37mm please), on leather strap, that can track two timezones. It must also have a date. I am ambivalent towards whether it is a GMT, Dual Time, Home Time, Travel Time, etc. etc. - as long as it can track two timezones.

I currently have a 116710 GMT, but it's a bit sporty sometimes when I am in a more formal suit and tie, particularly if I am having meetings with a more traditional crowd. Further, I am occasionally in black tie, and although I can simply take my wristwatch off and carry a pocketwatch, I would like a watch that can semi-acceptably slip under the radar most times even in black tie - i.e. not too, too much busier than a traditional three hander AND slim enough to fit under french cuffs (I am aware that the vast majority of practical modern society find it acceptable to wear a sub / LN in a suit, or even black tie, but please humor me for now).

Here are some options I am exploring, and I was hoping the excellent TRF community could suggest any that I am missing. Again, must track two timezones, have a date, and come on a strap (no bracelets please).

- Patek 5134 (edit: nvm forgot that this doesn't have a date)

- Chopard L.U.C. Classic GMT 16/1867 or 161867 (unsure of the exact serial semantics) - does anyone have more info about this watch by the way? I googled a bunch and it is hard to find info on this...I love this Chopard since it looks very much like a JLC MUT Moon 39 (and I love that JLC design, but too bad it's not a GMT)

- GP 1966 dual time

- JLC Master Geographic Q1428421

- JLC Master Hometime (both historical and modern iterations)

I am aware of but have eliminated the following: AP Jules Audemars Dual Time (36mm too small, modern iterations' dials too busy), Lange Timezone 1 (brilliant watch but dial also draws significant attention), Montblanc GMTs (not a fan of the dials), Omega Worldtimer (too big), VC / Patek Worldtimers (dial draws too much attention), GS GMTs - both spring drive and high beat iterations (their 40mm and ~14mm thickness makes these just a tad too large for my tastes).

Any additional information you have on these potential candidates, especially regarding the Chopard, and any other suggestions you might have are welcome. I would like something at least at or above the Omega Aqua Terra GMT levels of horology / price (honestly I love the AT, but the AT GMTs are too large and are sporty even on a strap, so those are out as well). Thank you for reading!

[wuyangkid]

Have you considered JLC reverso?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

[CasinoRoyale_007]

Originally Posted by wuyangkid

Have you considered JLC reverso?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Great suggestion - somehow I haven't yet fallen in love with the shape design of the Reverso (at least not yet). Might fall in love with it over time though - I also hated the GMT, RO, Nautilus when I first got into watches (and like all of them now), so maybe with due time...

[Andad]

You need something old and gold with minimum functions for a ‘dress’ watch James.

[CasinoRoyale_007]

Originally Posted by Andad

You need something old and good with minimum functions for a ‘dress’ watch James.

Haha, figured this was coming I tried to preempt it by saying "dressy," but you are of course correct!

[tna23]

I would go for the GO Sixties.

[CasinoRoyale_007]

Originally Posted by tna23

I would go for the GO Sixties.

I think the only GO dual time zone is the Senator Cosmopolite, right? Does the Sixties have a Dual Time model? Would be a welcome surprise if I missed that

[mps354]

If you can live without a date maybe the Lange Saxonia dual time. If you need a date but can live with a slightly bigger size, the Lange time zone.

[CasinoRoyale_007]

Originally Posted by mps354

If you can live without a date maybe the Lange Saxonia dual time. If you need a date but can live with a slightly bigger size, the Lange time zone.

The Saxonia dual time is definitely the watch that has me closest to giving up a date... love it more than the 5134.

[watchucallit]

This is a worldtime and I use the second dial as a GMT. It is 42mm but wears small for a 42mm based on lug design.

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ja...on-introducing

[myporsche]

Lange Timezone, it looks busy but in person it's a divine watch and has very useful complications.

[uscmatt99]

I like the JLC options you've mentioned. I didn't realize the Hometime had been discontinued, I don't see it on their website any more.

[gnuyork]

Originally Posted by CasinoRoyale_007

Great suggestion - somehow I haven't yet fallen in love with the shape design of the Reverso (at least not yet). Might fall in love with it over time though - I also hated the GMT, RO, Nautilus when I first got into watches (and like all of them now), so maybe with due time...

I would suggest trying one on if you haven't I can't stand rectangle or square watches, but I was in an airport boutique in London while waiting for a flight. I tried on the MUT but then the salesman handed me a (medium) Reverso... I had no interest in it, but I thought what the hell, I'd try it on... and now I can't stop thinking about it.

[vman]

I liked JLC Master Geographic Q1428421 a lot. But honestly, a proper GMT complication wins. Most worldtimers are too busy.

[CasinoRoyale_007]

Looks like I'll have to try the reverso in person then, once COVID is under control.
I love the Master Geographic a lot as well, but the BP seems to be dressier and frankly less of a hassle, so that's winning so far (the BP Villeret GMT)

[RXAPPP]

JLC MUT Moon39 in Gold - Preowned $ for $ it has no equal IMHO

[CasinoRoyale_007]

Originally Posted by RXAPPP

JLC MUT Moon39 in Gold - Preowned $ for $ it has no equal IMHO

I would get a JLC MUT Moon but it's not a GMT :(