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Old 31 July 2023, 07:55 PM   #1
MAT4150
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15450 vs 15550

Visiting AP House next month for the first time to look at 37mm ROs and wondering how the 15450 wears compared to the 15550. I have about a 6” wrist so definitely prefer the sizing of the 37. I’ve tried on a 15450 and it doesn’t wear too big but with the tapering on the new model bracelets was wondering if that’d make the watch wear any more snug. I saw a 15450 for a good price recently but mostly concerned about which of the two wears better on a small wrist. Thanks!
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Old 31 July 2023, 11:29 PM   #2
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Visiting AP House next month for the first time to look at 37mm ROs and wondering how the 15450 wears compared to the 15550. I have about a 6” wrist so definitely prefer the sizing of the 37. I’ve tried on a 15450 and it doesn’t wear too big but with the tapering on the new model bracelets was wondering if that’d make the watch wear any more snug. I saw a 15450 for a good price recently but mostly concerned about which of the two wears better on a small wrist. Thanks!
15550 is 0.7mm thinner, which should be noticeable (both too small for me, so didn't actually try them on). My wife has a 15450, and I don't see any need to upgrade to a 15550 (and as the 15450 has an AP movement one could even argue which sign the "upgrade" would have). OTOH, if you can get a 15550 as from the AP house, I'd take that over a used/grey 15450.
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Old 1 August 2023, 12:22 AM   #3
MAT4150
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15550 is 0.7mm thinner, which should be noticeable (both too small for me, so didn't actually try them on). My wife has a 15450, and I don't see any need to upgrade to a 15550 (and as the 15450 has an AP movement one could even argue which sign the "upgrade" would have). OTOH, if you can get a 15550 as from the AP house, I'd take that over a used/grey 15450.
That's very helpful! I found a 15450 for about $33k and heading up to AP House at the end of the month. I'm okay with gray, just want to make sure the watch doesn't look too big on me.
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Old 1 August 2023, 01:13 AM   #4
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They're both great, very little between them

The 15450 has slightly more presence due to the lack of lug taper, thickness, but you might not mind that much

What dial color are you interested in?
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Old 1 August 2023, 01:22 AM   #5
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I've been wondering about this myself as everything I read points to the 41 wearing much larger than a 41, so maybe the 37 is the better option to go for...
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Old 1 August 2023, 01:22 AM   #6
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They're both great, very little between them

The 15450 has slightly more presence due to the lack of lug taper, thickness, but you might not mind that much

What dial color are you interested in?
Looking at the grey dial.
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Old 1 August 2023, 02:32 AM   #7
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Looking at the grey dial.
IMO, that should not be impossible - with a 6" wrist there isn't much else they could offer as a first piece from the current catalogue.
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Old 1 August 2023, 02:37 AM   #8
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I tried both references and to be honest I prefer the 15450ST a bit more as the bracelet feels a bit chunkier and sporty, but it's rather subjective.

Both the case and bracelet of the 15550ST is thinner than the 15450ST, which makes it feel more in-line with the 1990s 14790ST (36mm) Royal Oaks.

Like you I am on the hunt for a grey market 15450ST or splash even more for a 26315ST (38mm Chrono), while waiting on the low probability that AP offers me the 15550ST at retail.
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Old 1 August 2023, 03:17 AM   #9
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IMO, that should not be impossible - with a 6" wrist there isn't much else they could offer as a first piece from the current catalogue.
Fingers crossed! Visiting AP House in New York later in August to see.
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Old 1 August 2023, 03:27 AM   #10
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Fingers crossed! Visiting AP House in New York later in August to see.
Good luck, do let us know how it goes!
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Old 1 August 2023, 03:48 AM   #11
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I own both and have a slight preference for the 15550. It is thinner and thus has better proportions. I cannot say the 15450 has more presence, tbh I think the 15550 has more. The facets are larger, so the lines speak even more. If you want grey, the only option is the 15450 I think?





There you go!
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Old 1 August 2023, 02:53 PM   #12
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I own both and have a slight preference for the 15550. It is thinner and thus has better proportions. I cannot say the 15450 has more presence, tbh I think the 15550 has more. The facets are larger, so the lines speak even more. If you want grey, the only option is the 15450 I think?





There you go!

Which one do you feel wears bigger?
Does either of them seem to have a larger dial feel.

I own a 124270 which I love as a daily …. The 15550 looks to have a larger bracelet/ case presence but a smaller dial presence relative to the explorer.
I need to get in and try one on but for a dressy option the dark grey 15550 looks intriguing


..Explorer & Spring Diver - I’m just here for the photos..
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Old 2 August 2023, 12:50 AM   #13
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smaller and thinner, it fits well for most people
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Old 2 August 2023, 05:03 AM   #14
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Tried the 15550 at AP Boutique. I'm a big fan of mid size RO (love the 14790), but I found the 15550 underwhelming. Sure the case is thinner and felt better proportions wise compared to the somewhat chunky 15450.

But looking at the movement through saphire caseback, it does not compare to the 15450 and that glorious gold oscillating weight. The 15550 movement looks very basic, not very "haute horlogerie".

Also dial is on the minimalist side without AP logo and Automatic writing.

I tried the grey dial, very dynamic and looks cool under natural light. Indoor lighting it felt too much monochromatic to my taste, almost dull.
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Old 2 August 2023, 09:50 AM   #15
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Tried the 15550 at AP Boutique. I'm a big fan of mid size RO (love the 14790), but I found the 15550 underwhelming. Sure the case is thinner and felt better proportions wise compared to the somewhat chunky 15450.

But looking at the movement through saphire caseback, it does not compare to the 15450 and that glorious gold oscillating weight. The 15550 movement looks very basic, not very "haute horlogerie".

Also dial is on the minimalist side without AP logo and Automatic writing.

I tried the grey dial, very dynamic and looks cool under natural light. Indoor lighting it felt too much monochromatic to my taste, almost dull.
That’s very helpful! I do definitely lean towards the dial on the 15450. But definitely curious how the 15550 will wear so looking forward to seeing one.
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Old 2 August 2023, 04:22 PM   #16
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That’s very helpful! I do definitely lean towards the dial on the 15450. But definitely curious how the 15550 will wear so looking forward to seeing one.

I have a 6.5 inches wrist and 15550st wears very well.
So does the 38mm ROC.
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Old 2 August 2023, 05:44 PM   #17
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550 has a vaucher movement, 450 has an in-house movement which may be a deciding factor for you also
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Old 4 August 2023, 03:55 AM   #18
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Which one do you feel wears bigger?
Does either of them seem to have a larger dial feel.

I own a 124270 which I love as a daily …. The 15550 looks to have a larger bracelet/ case presence but a smaller dial presence relative to the explorer.
I need to get in and try one on but for a dressy option the dark grey 15550 looks intriguing


..Explorer & Spring Diver - I’m just here for the photos..
If I have to chose, I would take the 15550. Don't get me wrong, I love the 15450, own the grey and silver dial. But the 15550 has better proportions, imo. Dial wise, I like the "automatic" on the 15450, but the applied Audemars Piguet on the 15550 is much nicer than the printed version on the 15450.

Movement wise: I don't care if it is in house or not. My 15550 has the 50years rotor, to me that's cooler, because over time, that will be more special.

The dial of the 15550 is blue, so it looks smaller than the grey dial of the 15450.
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Old 6 August 2023, 01:07 AM   #19
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But looking at the movement through saphire caseback, it does not compare to the 15450 and that glorious gold oscillating weight. The 15550 movement looks very basic, not very "haute horlogerie".

I think the same. The 3120 caliber is a beautiful in-house movement and otherwise the Vaucher movement seems to me poor and basic, not at the level of a Royal Oak watch. However, we must not forget that the 3120 has its weak points as well. I always wonder if this is the reason why the 3120 was retired after only 13 years of lifespan.
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Old 6 August 2023, 06:07 AM   #20
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The 15550 not even having an in-house movement is pretty shocking honestly. I don't think it's going to age well at all

The 15450's 3120 movement is massively popular because of its aesthetics by comparison
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Old 6 August 2023, 11:06 AM   #21
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But looking at the movement through saphire caseback, it does not compare to the 15450 and that glorious gold oscillating weight. The 15550 movement looks very basic, not very "haute horlogerie".

I think the same. The 3120 caliber is a beautiful in-house movement and otherwise the Vaucher movement seems to me poor and basic, not at the level of a Royal Oak watch. However, we must not forget that the 3120 has its weak points as well. I always wonder if this is the reason why the 3120 was retired after only 13 years of lifespan.
Curious what weak spots do you think the 3120 has?
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Old 6 August 2023, 03:28 PM   #22
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The 15550 not even having an in-house movement is pretty shocking honestly. I don't think it's going to age well at all
Jumbo and Nautilus started out with non-in-house movements, even though it was eventually brought in-house by AP. The 41mm RO chrono had a non-in-house movement until last year, and the 38mm one still does. You have VC and PP manual chronos based on a 80-yr old non-in-house design. Nobody knows what's going on at Richemont, and Tudor's situation is similarly murky. Are RM's lower grade movements in house? Are the Renaut & Papi designed ones? Non-in-house-movement Daytona's a worth more than those with the Rolex movement. What makes something "in-house"? Design or manufacture? Both? Partial ownership of the manufacturer?

It's all far less clear-cut than it might seem at first, and the obsession with in-house movements is fairly recent. I'll have to get the loupe out and check whether I agree that the Vaucher in my wife's 34mm RO is "poor" compared to the AP movement in her 15450.
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Old 6 August 2023, 04:18 PM   #23
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Curious what weak spots do you think the 3120 has?
Chronometric performance for one. That was one thing AP tried to improve with the double balance in cal 3132. I was told the vaucher has better chronometric performance than the 3120.
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Old 6 August 2023, 07:57 PM   #24
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Curious what weak spots do you think the 3120 has?
Mainly serious accuracy issues and date wheel sticking up -among others- have been reported on TRF over the years and much discussed. In my particular case , my RO has had to go to service 3 times out of schedule for different problems, i.e., a screw came loose from the mechanism, it was gaining several hours in a single day and the full stem came off the watch. Not very happy with the 3120.
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Old 6 August 2023, 10:41 PM   #25
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The 15550 not even having an in-house movement is pretty shocking honestly. I don't think it's going to age well at all

The 15450's 3120 movement is massively popular because of its aesthetics by comparison
This nails it on the head totally. How could it not be in house!? For that price?
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Old 7 August 2023, 03:01 AM   #26
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I love my 15450. I prefer the rose gold rotor. Pic on my 6.3” wrist



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Old 7 August 2023, 04:26 AM   #27
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I love my 15450. I prefer the rose gold rotor. Pic on my 6.3” wrist



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gorgeous
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Old 7 August 2023, 07:02 AM   #28
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gorgeous
Thank you
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Old 7 August 2023, 08:05 AM   #29
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I wonder though, why there are so many more 15550s on the market vs15450
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Old 7 August 2023, 08:06 AM   #30
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I wonder though, why there are so many more 15550s on the market vs15450
Scummy Flippers
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