Day-Date - Buyers Guide & Advice

[ryangambrill]

Hello All -

Does anyone know of some good articles/resources for the Day-Date? I have seen several articles/videos but they did not cover some of my specific questions.

Objective is to add a WG or Plat to the collection as I already have a vintage 18078.

For example, I vaguely remember reading that improvements were made to the bracelet in some references to reduce/eliminate "stretch". Maybe ceramic pins?

Im also partial to the classic size and proportions of the 36.

With that being said, a reference (either WG or Plat) from mid 2000's is 1/2 the price of a recent reference.

[Hardtimes]

I can help you with some of this. Sticking with the 36mm references.
The ceramic sleaves are only available in the 40mm to the best of my knowledge. However, there bracelets along with some other things were updated in the 6-digit DD that came out in the 2000 year range. Later in the SAME reference the clasp was substantially upgraded. So you got solid center links first and then solid center links and a much better clasp later on (I want to say mid 2000s) I own a 118238, the YG. I am pretty sure the WG and Plat mirrored this.
Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions.

[Calatrava r]

I think you are referring to ceramic pin sleeves, not the pins themselves which are still made of metal. If you want them, you will have to get the current models. I believe the new 36mm DDs also have the sleeves. Buying an older DD, I would get one with solid links and double-quick set. Not sure when the solid links came out, but it has been several years. I would then find one without much bracelet stretch, sort of a special occasion watch for the previous owner.

[Michael T]

The 116238 had the first solid links. As mentioned previously, the clasp was upgraded to the wider buckle in the mid 2000's. I thought the DD40 228238 introduced the ceramic sleeves.

[jgottsman11]

New 128236 and 128239 will have ceramic pins. 118206 and 118239 will not have ceramic pins but will have the new clasp post 2002.

[miamiclay]

I’m not 100% certain, but I think the solid links and improved clasp are on all 36mm DDs from 2006 on.

Good idea to post pics of any serious candidates before buying - There are lots of non-period-correct dial swaps, “custom” dials, etc. out there.

Good luck, enjoy the hunt!

[TheSearcher]

Nice thread topic - I will hopefully be purchasing my first day date 40 YG before year end, any advice on upkeep/insurance/cleaning and maintaining will be great

[ryangambrill]

Originally Posted by TheSearcher

Nice thread topic - I will hopefully be purchasing my first day date 40 YG before year end, any advice on upkeep/insurance/cleaning and maintaining will be great

Upkeep, Cleaning, Maintaining - Wear the timepiece as much as you can. Send it in for service every 10+ years. Don't sweat the small stuff.

[trandonnghia92]

118239???

[piratfisk]

Originally Posted by jgottsman11

New 128236 and 128239 will have ceramic pins. 118206 and 118239 will not have ceramic pins but will have the new clasp post 2002.

Great information! Thank you!

[ryangambrill]

Originally Posted by jgottsman11

New 128236 and 128239 will have ceramic pins. 118206 and 118239 will not have ceramic pins but will have the new clasp post 2002.

Any other significant improvements/changes?

[ryangambrill]

Originally Posted by jgottsman11

New 128236 and 128239 will have ceramic pins. 118206 and 118239 will not have ceramic pins but will have the new clasp post 2002.

Is the 118206 & 118239 considered to be DayDate 2?

[huncho]

Originally Posted by ryangambrill

Is the 118206 & 118239 considered to be DayDate 2?

DD36 was 118xxx and is now 128xxx
DD2 is 218xxx
DD40 is 228xxx

[ryangambrill]

Originally Posted by huncho

DD36 was 118xxx and is now 128xxx
DD2 is 218xxx
DD40 is 228xxx

Thanks!

To confirm??......during the 118XXX and 128XXX era, the largest avail size was DD36.

DD2 era (218xxx) ushered in the 41mm. Was a 36 avail during this time?

DD40 is 228XXX and there is DD36 avail during this time.

[icejeep]

I think the sleeves was introduced with the 218206 (platty DD2 - 41mm).
It could be a very good buy, I prefer it to the DD40. Lots of nice dials on the 218206 also.

[ryangambrill]

Originally Posted by icejeep

I think the sleeves was introduced with the 218206 (platty DD2 - 41mm).
It could be a very good buy, I prefer it to the DD40. Lots of nice dials on the 218206 also.

I am working through price thoughts. A price that is double might not bring double the value to me. ex. 118206 (platinum) at $30k vs newer model at $60k+. Personally I, as of this moment, I would prefer to have a 118206 plat at $30k ish over a DD40 WG.

[huncho]

Originally Posted by ryangambrill

Thanks!

To confirm??......during the 118XXX and 128XXX era, the largest avail size was DD36.

DD2 era (218xxx) ushered in the 41mm. Was a 36 avail during this time?

DD40 is 228XXX and there is DD36 avail during this time.

118xxx was introduced in 2000, 128xxx was introduced in 2019 i believe

DD2 was introduced in 2008 and discontinued in 2015 with the introduction of the DD40

36 was always available