1680 Red replacement bracelet - what can RSC do?

[ars1g09]

Hi all - the original bracelet on my Mk 4 1680 red sub has been damaged, so I am looking to get a replacement.

What will happen if I bring the watch head to an RSC and request a replacement bracelet? Will they be able to sell me a 93150 bracelet?

Very much appreciate feedback from those who know better/have been in the same position.

Thanks!

[rootbeer7]

Yes they will. Alternatively you could try to find a period or year correct 9135/0

[sfc rick]

I decided to take mine to an authorized dealer and had them replace my damaged bracelet with a genuine Rolex item, return my old one and kept the receipt. Later I sold my old one and recouped about 75% of the new bracelet purchase price. There is another approach to consider, send your damaged bracelet to be restored and see if that option might meet your needs.

[TuRo]

Originally Posted by ars1g09

Hi all - the original bracelet on my Mk 4 1680 red sub has been damaged, so I am looking to get a replacement.

What will happen if I bring the watch head to an RSC and request a replacement bracelet? Will they be able to sell me a 93150 bracelet?

Very much appreciate feedback from those who know better/have been in the same position.

Thanks!

Yes 93150 are still available with a service 'S' clasp. Been a while, but last time I bought one they were circa £1000 for a Rolex and about £780 for a Tudor version incl 580's. A refurb is also a good alternative as is sourcing a second hand period 9315 about £1200-1300, plus 280/580s or a post 1976 93150 about £800-850 plus El's.

[Swearengen]

I've had a couple of bracelets refurbished my Michael Young in Hong Kong and was very pleased with the results, so that might be an option. In passing I wear my 1680 on a 93150 and its feels much more secure than the 9315

https://www.classicwatchrepair.com/

[ars1g09]

Thank you all for your input!

Went to the Singapore RSC today - they said that for them to let me buy a new bracelet, they have to service the watch first. (Has anyone heard of this rule before?) Bracelet costs c. USD1300, service costs USD1160. I definitely did not want to do a service as this was serviced by RSC London back in 2015.

I made it very clear that I am very apprehensive about servicing my red sub as I have heard horror stories of vintage parts being replaced by service parts, and I communicated my concern to the staff there. In the end, the only way they can guarantee that a part will not be replaced during service is by doing an 'assessment', so for now I have submitted it for that.

Would love to hear what you guys think about this - on whether or not i should send it in for service for the sake of a new bracelet.

Thanks!

[Dan S]

Weird rule and totally illogical, sounds like a money grab. I would just buy a bracelet secondhand or have the original repaired. I would prefer to use the original anyway. Is it a 9315?

[Eric88]

If yours was serviced in 2015, it could be getting close to another service after 8 years, or you could also wait another 2-5+ years, however long until you see erratic timekeeping or whatever.

I don't believe it's worth spending $2460 total for the service and the bracelet, just to get the bracelet. If you look around on TRF and other watch forums, the 93150 comes up fairly often for sale. Sometimes even a NOS/new one will appear. I remember about 10 years ago I was fortunate to find one stickered in the box from a trusted forum member and it was priced fairly. You could also check with some of the trusted vintage watchmakers as well.

[ars1g09]

Originally Posted by Dan S

Weird rule and totally illogical, sounds like a money grab. I would just buy a bracelet secondhand or have the original repaired. I would prefer to use the original anyway. Is it a 9315?

Yeah, I did mention how weird of a rule this was - but they simply wouldn't budge. I'm guessing by the surprise this may not be a common occurrence

Yes, the original is a 9315 bracelet - but it's simply not fit for purpose right now, with a lot of stretch (it got into an accident - snagged on something). When i tried my friend's 1680 on a 93150, it was definitely much more comfortable and functional

[ars1g09]

Originally Posted by Eric88

If yours was serviced in 2015, it could be getting close to another service after 8 years, or you could also wait another 2-5+ years, however long until you see erratic timekeeping or whatever.

I don't believe it's worth spending $2460 total for the service and the bracelet, just to get the bracelet. If you look around on TRF and other watch forums, the 93150 comes up fairly often for sale. Sometimes even a NOS/new one will appear. I remember about 10 years ago I was fortunate to find one stickered in the box from a trusted forum member and it was priced fairly. You could also check with some of the trusted vintage watchmakers as well.

Got it - do you think servicing every 10 years is a wise move for vintages like the 1680?

And yes I thought about sourcing my own, but I've seen a fair share of aftermarket bracelets and I'm simply not confident enough to authenticate one myself, especially when I cant physically inspect it.
Plus the last one that came on sale in TRF was back in Feb, and it was for USD 2000!

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by ars1g09

Yes, the original is a 9315 bracelet - but it's simply not fit for purpose right now, with a lot of stretch (it got into an accident - snagged on something). When i tried my friend's 1680 on a 93150, it was definitely much more comfortable and functional

I will just say for the record, that's not my opinion. I find the 9315 bracelets to be totally comfortable, functional, and fit for the purpose. You would just need to have yours repaired. It would be cheaper than buying a 93150, and more appropriate for the watch IMO.

I have a red 1680 on a 9315, and a white 1680 on a 93150, and they are both good, but I prefer the folded link bracelets overall.

Still, if you prefer a more modern bracelet on your vintage watch, there's nothing wrong with that.

[Eric88]

Originally Posted by ars1g09

Got it - do you think servicing every 10 years is a wise move for vintages like the 1680?

And yes I thought about sourcing my own, but I've seen a fair share of aftermarket bracelets and I'm simply not confident enough to authenticate one myself, especially when I cant physically inspect it.
Plus the last one that came on sale in TRF was back in Feb, and it was for USD 2000!

10 years as a servicing interval is kind of a general rule for mechanical watches. There are stories of folks wearing vintage Rolex watches for decades without getting them serviced. If your watch is running well and no other issues, it's up to you. If you use it around water or swim much with it, then getting a service to replace seals/gaskets is a practical move.

When I got my current 1680 nearly 10 years ago, I wore it several years and noticed that it was running really fast. I had no knowledge of the service history, so I decided to have LAWW do a full service and now I can feel comfortable knowing this and decide whenever I want to do this again (probably will be at least 10 years).

As for buying 93150 bracelets on the forum marketplace, you're right that they may be expensive, though deals come along.

If you decide to go the service route for yours at an RSC, just be really careful that they don't replace the important things like dial, hands, date wheel, bezel.

[logo]

I recently sent in an 89 Explorer to RSC, did the same as you and requested an assessment only and instructions not to do anything until they give me quotes. Mine is due for a service, but I told them no touching of the dial, hands, etc. Still debating getting it polished or not, but that’s a different matter… Anyway, while my bracelet has a bit of stretch it’s not so bad at all. Still, I was told I could buy a replacement if I wanted and keep the original, which I may do just to have as a backup as the price is reasonable for a genuine part that may be tougher to source down the road. Interestingly, RSC also told me they will outfit a watch with a Rolex NATO if they don’t have the original bracelet available anymore - has anyone ever received a Rolex NATO from service?

[ars1g09]

update: assesment came back, with the following parts marked for replacement, would love to hear your opinions on whether I should go ahead for the service:
1. Ring (steel)
2. Crown with gasket 704, (steel)
3. Crown tube 703 (steel)
4. Bridge (upper automatic bridge)

Last service turns out was 2013, so more than 10 years ago.

Should be noted that I think the current crown is no longer the 702, but is instead the 703.

[Dom9]

Is the "Ring" The crystal retaining ring? If so, I am not sure anyone would be able to tell whether that was original to the watch or not. I'd take 1&4 (if they let you only do those, which I guess they may not) but I don't think I'd want a 704 crown and the tube swapped out, unless I could find earlier replacements. There are good ones out there, some new and blistered.

[Dan S]

I'm also wondering what "ring" means. That's a pretty vague description. Could even be the rotating bezel ring.

Regarding the crown/tube, do you happen to know what crown is currently on the watch? It's hard to give an opinion without knowing. Many collectors like to have a period correct crown. And of course some people mock those collectors for that preference.

[dcorn]

I bought a new 93150 bracelet from Tourneau (AD) a few months ago (before Rolex purchased the company...). All I did was show them my 1680 on a crappy fake bracelet, and they immediately ordered the part for me. Took abut 6 weeks to come in. It cost $1250 USD and came with a full 12 links, 580 endlinks, and new springbars.

Mine has a CP12 date code, no S for service.

For reference, P/N on the packaging is B20-93150-20-3-E1

[Dom9]

Originally Posted by Dan S

I'm also wondering what "ring" means. That's a pretty vague description. Could even be the rotating bezel ring.

Regarding the crown/tube, do you happen to know what crown is currently on the watch? It's hard to give an opinion without knowing. Many collectors like to have a period correct crown. And of course some people mock those collectors for that preference.

Could be the bezel ring - good shout! More info needed there. Irrespective of whether it already had a 704 on it from say the last service, I think I'd still want a 703 or earlier, so it was crimped and not a mono-bloc. But other's opinions may vary, of course

[TimeLord2]

Wanted to purchase a bezel insert for my 1675/3 at the RSC in BH (2019). The RSC would not sell me that without a service. I will mention the watch had not been serviced for 25 years. However, I had it serviced independently and went back to purchase a bezel insert and they were fine with that. I can only assume they tested the watch to see how it was running prior to approving the purchase.

[ars1g09]

Hi all - a further update:

The ring is confirmed to be the Bezel ring. I quote the below:
"The ring is below the bezel which is rusty therefore the replacement is necessary. "

The current crown on the watch is, I am pretty sure, the 703 - but they do insist on replacing it, and replacing it with a 704 as they don't have a 703 part.

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by ars1g09

Hi all - a further update:

The ring is confirmed to be the Bezel ring. I quote the below:
"The ring is below the bezel which is rusty therefore the replacement is necessary. "

The current crown on the watch is, I am pretty sure, the 703 - but they do insist on replacing it, and replacing it with a 704 as they don't have a 703 part.

They are referring to the retaining ring under the bezel. Not the bezel itself.

[southtexas]

Times may have changed, but in the past I would go to AD and show them my watch, and they would order me the part I needed. I've done this for endlinks and inserts, so not sure why they couldn't do it for a bracelet (if indeed the AD is still even able to order various parts).

[BluE46]

I am also told Michael Young is the guy. I believe on another note he is one of the only guys that can restore SS / 18k rivet bracelets

[JJL]

Hi which end links are best for the 1680 and more modern 93150 bracelet, 580? I recently asked my local AD about ordering one of them and I feel like they recommended something different, but perhaps the sales person misspoke. Appreciate the advice in advance!

[TuRo]

Originally Posted by JJL

Hi which end links are best for the 1680 and more modern 93150 bracelet, 580? I recently asked my local AD about ordering one of them and I feel like they recommended something different, but perhaps the sales person misspoke. Appreciate the advice in advance!

See #4 above - they sometimes suggest a later solid end link but a 93150/580 (edit excuse earlier typo) is still the best imho. At circa £1000-1200. 580 service end links are slightly different shape and stamping but a good fit - and I think a couple of hundred pounds or so.

[JJL]

Originally Posted by TuRo

See #4 above - they sometimes suggest a later solid end link but a 93150/380 is still the best imho. At circa £1000-1200.

Thanks for the response. I just spoke with my AD and placed an order for a new 93150. They said that the 592 and 580 were options, I opted with the 580 although he was saying they are basically the same exact thing just an older / newer version based on the year it was made.