Breguet - thoughts, opinions, perspectives, reviews

[lorsban]

Great points there, C. Davidson.

I agree for the most part. Business decisions in the realm of the stock market are only based on the bottom line and nothing else. So, it's easy for a watch company to lose its identity.

When Ebel was under the same umbrella as Tag, LVMH wanted Ebel to focus on women's watches, and Tag to focus on men's sport watches. Today, under Movado, Ebel was given the green light to design an entire line of watches for men, the 1911 BTR series.

That's just an example of what can happen. I'm sure similar things happen under the umbrellas of other great watch groups. Luckily, Breguet was allowed to keep its heritage and style, albeit at the expense of quality during their "transitional" phase of corporate ownership.

[watchteacher]

Originally Posted by Calibre11

My point is slightly different- Lemania has a wonderful heritage as a Swiss movement manufacturer, so why not sell Breguet with Lemania movements?

I hear that Swatch are planning on renaming ETA movements as Swatch- for the same reason, I don't support that, because ETA are one of the other great movement houses.

I'm not a movement snob. Some are knocking the new Tudor heritage Chrono because it has ETA + DD module; but to me its a great chrono that I'd love to own.

Now, I doubt that I'll ever own a Breguet, but that has nothing to do with their use of Lemania movements or other- they're just not my style.

Well, Patek used the Lemania movement in their chronograph and perpertual calendar chronograph-should they call it a Lemania too?

[watchteacher]

Originally Posted by lorsban

Great points there, C. Davidson.

I agree for the most part. Business decisions in the realm of the stock market are only based on the bottom line and nothing else. So, it's easy for a watch company to lose its identity.

When Ebel was under the same umbrella as Tag, LVMH wanted Ebel to focus on women's watches, and Tag to focus on men's sport watches. Today, under Movado, Ebel was given the green light to design an entire line of watches for men, the 1911 BTR series.

That's just an example of what can happen. I'm sure similar things happen under the umbrellas of other great watch groups. Luckily, Breguet was allowed to keep its heritage and style, albeit at the expense of quality during their "transitional" phase of corporate ownership.

As I noted earlier, Breguet quality during its Investcorp ownership (post Chaumet, prior to Hayek family ownership) was no better or worse than any other major Swiss luxury brand.

This is first hand knowledge from someone who ran a repair department with twenty watchmakers who was an authorized dealer for Patek, Audemars, Vacheron, Rolex, Breguet, and Blancpain, among others.

AP used to have a choice of three different mainsprings for one caliber-because the escapement setup could vary so much that one mainspring could be too strong, another too weak, and the third just right!

[lorsban]

Originally Posted by watchteacher

As I noted earlier, Breguet quality during its Investcorp ownership (post Chaumet, prior to Hayek family ownership) was no better or worse than any other major Swiss luxury brand.

This is first hand knowledge from someone who ran a repair department with twenty watchmakers who was an authorized dealer for Patek, Audemars, Vacheron, Rolex, Breguet, and Blancpain, among others.

AP used to have a choice of three different mainsprings for one caliber-because the escapement setup could vary so much that one mainspring could be too strong, another too weak, and the third just right!

Regarding quality, I'm only going with the accepted notion. In my experience, my Type XX is just as durable as my other watches but I thought that was just me.

Good to know there's an expert who agrees.

This whole quality issue is really worth looking into. Since its really a shame that such great watches are passed over due to mere heresay - if thats all it really is.

[SteelerFan65]

As far as Swatch owning them --they are still Breguet. Much like Riechmont owns many top brands. Look at it like Pepsi owns Taco Bell--Taco Bell is still Taco Bell. While the deep pocket corporations own them -- they are still being made and run up to their high standards! Every high end watch company makes nice watches and at least one of their models will appeal to you or to others.

[Calibre11]

Originally Posted by watchteacher

Well, Patek used the Lemania movement in their chronograph and perpertual calendar chronograph-should they call it a Lemania too?

No- Patek and Breguet should call the Calibre in their watches whatever they like

But the company that designed and made that movement is Lemania.

[watchteacher]

Originally Posted by Calibre11

No- Patek and Breguet should call the Calibre in their watches whatever they like

But the company that designed and made that movement is Lemania.

And it happens to be among the most beautiful and functional manual chronographs-ever.

[Starwalker]

BTW if anyone is interested in Breguet..you can go on the website and apply for a catalog/brochure and they'll send it to you free...just received mine in the mail...its worth the 5 minutes of effort, the pictures are simply stunning..and its a beautiful brochure to have in the collection.

[psv]

I'm bumping this old thread because I had lunch with an old friend today and he was sporting a beautiful Breguet Marine Big Date. It has taken me a few years to warm up to that style guilloche and Breguet hands, but now I find them stunning. It is distinctive and singular design that has stood the test of time.

[leica]

Originally Posted by johnswatch

The modern Breguet company is actually rebranded Lemania so there's no link between the famous client list of the original company and the new one other than a company name.

I really love the look of the Breguet Marine too but a review of the posts on the Breguet forum over at thepuristspro brought up a lot of reliability issues that weren't being addressed to the owners satisfaction. As the number of watches produced is very small for there to be so many posts about reliability has me very concerned. I note that there are very few issues posted on the VC, Patek and Lange sections.

For me the reliability issue is a deal breaker. My personal definition of quality includes relaibility not just beautiful polishing.

Having said that the Marine really is stunning to look at......

X2. Stunning tho'...

[aardvarkbark]

Originally Posted by psv

I'm bumping this old thread because I had lunch with an old friend today and he was sporting a beautiful Breguet Marine Big Date. It has taken me a few years to warm up to that style guilloche and Breguet hands, but now I find them stunning. It is distinctive and singular design that has stood the test of time.

After weeks of vacillating between guilloche and enamel, I finally settled on the enamel for its simplicity and those elegant numerals...

[Starwalker]

Originally Posted by aardvarkbark

After weeks of vacillating between guilloche and enamel, I finally settled on the enamel for its simplicity and those elegant numerals...

Thats a beautiful watch!!!!

[capote]

I like many of their watches, they are priced good as well considering that they use real guilloche work and not stamped dials.

[psv]

Oh well, I went into the AD to check out some Breguets, expecting to really dig the new 3810ti but boy was I wrong. The grade 2 titanium just didn't impress, the design felt a bit cartoonish but the real killer was that the date wheel didn't center correctly and then there was a weird resistance + noise when trying to quick-set the date. The salesperson agreed with my finding and immediately removed the watch from the display case. Obviously a lemon, but it didn't exactly make for a great impression of the brand.

[shafran]

Yours is beautiful. Enjoy it.

[dom_]

I am glad this thread has left the chat of Breguet being Breguet or not. None of the watch brands are the same business as they used to be. All different owners, price points, philosophy, design ideas etc.

Why Breguet does it for me is the original designs. I'm not a fan of the more modern designs, but the original ones which mimic the dial of the pocket watches still look stunning and are so readable.

Then the thought of carrying around a watch which has some of the original ideas still going, his use of the overcoil on the hairspring, a tourbillion, those hands, lots and lots of great inventions.

[aardvarkbark]

Originally Posted by psv

Oh well, I went into the AD to check out some Breguets, expecting to really dig the new 3810ti but boy was I wrong. The grade 2 titanium just didn't impress, the design felt a bit cartoonish but the real killer was that the date wheel didn't center correctly and then there was a weird resistance + noise when trying to quick-set the date. The salesperson agreed with my finding and immediately removed the watch from the display case. Obviously a lemon, but it didn't exactly make for a great impression of the brand.

I recently added the ss 3810. The date wheel is ever so slightly off, and I had seen that in pics posted by others of their XXI. I, too, noticed that when turning the crown in the second position (quick-set date), there is that noticeable resistance and 'zzzzz' noise, same as when winding it. I called the Prestige Brand guys at the Swatch Group Service Center in Secaucus and was told that those are all characteristics of the movement. It may not make a good impression, but I'm not sure the one you looked at was a lemon.

[QueueCumber]

Originally Posted by psv

I'm bumping this old thread because I had lunch with an old friend today and he was sporting a beautiful Breguet Marine Big Date. It has taken me a few years to warm up to that style guilloche and Breguet hands, but now I find them stunning. It is distinctive and singular design that has stood the test of time.

Breguet design ethos is generally attractive to me, especially the fluted case bands, engine-turned dials, and blue Bregeut hands. They remind me of the 19th century silver dollars I found as a kid in my grandparents' sock drawers...

[psv]

Originally Posted by aardvarkbark

I recently added the ss 3810. The date wheel is ever so slightly off, and I had seen that in pics posted by others of their XXI. I, too, noticed that when turning the crown in the second position (quick-set date), there is that noticeable resistance and 'zzzzz' noise, same as when winding it. I called the Prestige Brand guys at the Swatch Group Service Center in Secaucus and was told that those are all characteristics of the movement. It may not make a good impression, but I'm not sure the one you looked at was a lemon.

Interesting to know. It would be a somewhat strange design is that type of resistance in the date quick-set, but anything is possible.

[SearChart]

Breguet makes exquisite watches, they are definitely as high-end as Patek and Vacheron.

[wvavin]

Whoever still not convinced? Simple, just spend a bit of time to examine a Brequet, PP or AP and you would realise that what a true beauty to detail is the Brequet. Of course, the only person that made all these happened in our time is none other than Daniel Roth. He is the one, who ensured every manufacturing process was in accordance to the original process (of course with modern machineries). A few areas for appreciation of the craftmanship in a Brequet are soldering of the lugs, coin-edge casing, dial engraving, movement edges, numbers on the dial (if any). Hope this helps.

[gmax]

I went to the website and ordered the free "brochure". Much to my surprise just two days later I received a Fed Ex package which contained a beautiful 265 page hardbound book of Breguet's current line...pretty impressive!

Hello Rolex?

Thanks for the tip Starwalker!

I attached some pics...

Originally Posted by Starwalker

BTW if anyone is interested in Breguet..you can go on the website and apply for a catalog/brochure and they'll send it to you free...just received mine in the mail...its worth the 5 minutes of effort, the pictures are simply stunning..and its a beautiful brochure to have in the collection.