Non-GMT GADA Travel Watches w/ Quickset Hour Hand

[4BostonB]

Looking for a piece that I can bring just about anywhere and do just about anything with. Some of my travel destinations wouldn't be a great fit for my GMT - the Rolex design language attracts some attention and I'd rather not have any collateral damage to those with whom I'm traveling.

Also, for domestic work travel, I'd like to be able to bring something that 99% of people won't think anything of - kind of a sleeper, if I can borrow the term.

Here are the criteria I've come up with so far:

1. 38-39mm steel case, automatic movement, <12mm thickness
2. Bracelet preferred; date preferred; >50hr PR preferred
3. 100M WR, screw down crown
4. Low-key styling - simple and classic, no/minimal dial-side complications, minimal polished surfaces
5. Independently adjustable hour hand without stopping movement - without GMT complication
6. No easily recognizeable brands (Rolex, Omega, etc.)

#5 seems to be the biggest sticking point - I think this is a killer complication for travelers, especially if you're going on vacation and don't really care what time it is in another time zone. I just want to be able to quickly update my local time and continue with my life.

So far, I haven't quite found anything that fits the bill exactly, but I've found a few that come close:

• JLC Geophysic True Second - missing a screw down crown; if I'm being picky, the case could be a mm smaller. Not sure I'd want to swim with 50M water resistance and no screw down crown.
• Sinn UTC 357 - a little too thick at 15mm, and too busy. It has an independently adjustable hour hand, but it's the secondary time zone not the main one.
• IWC IW325102 - A little on the industrial side design-wise. It also technically has a GMT function so not quite what I'm looking for. It's close but a little busy.
• Omega Globemaster - this is really close but again I'd rather stay away from a brand that someone would recognize. I think this is the only Omega with the 8500/8900 movement that's under 40mm, but we can group 'em all in here.
• Tudor BB Pro - I'll admit I haven't given this one a ton of thought. It seems like it would overlap pretty substantially with my LN GMT so it's not quite what I'm looking for.
• Grand Seiko GMTs - generally I think these are a little too dressy for this application - lots of polished surfaces; don't really seem like they'll blend in.

Overall the JLC is really closest to what I'm looking for, but I'm a little hesitant to buy a watch without a screw down crown knowing that I'll expose it to water. If this was 39mm and had screw down crown, I'd be done. At the end of the day, though, I'm not sure the watch I want exists at all.

What am I missing from this list above? Price ideally is around $7k but let's do under 10 (this will exclude the Aquanaut Travel Time, which was already too recognizable anyway).

[charger_vital]

Nomos Zurich World Time checks a lot of those boxes...

[key]

Following the thread as I'm interested in a similar, under the radar piece for travel as well.

For me, No. 5 (independently adjustable hour hand) is an added bonus, not a requirement so here's my list so far:

- Cartier Santos grey (100m water resistance, strap quick change system, elegant design)
- IWC top gun (60m water resistance, ceramic case)
- Ming 22.01 GMT (100m water resistance, independently adjustable hour hands, but no seconds hands)
- Ming 17.09 (100m water resistance, independently adjustable hour hands, but no seconds hands)

Interested in hearing other suggestions!

[LVx2]

You have described the Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT.

[rag5178]

If you're OK with quartz, it would be hard to beat the Grand Seiko SBGV245 based on your criteria. Just missing a bracelet, but that can be ordered separately. It's also discontinued so you would have to find a pre-owned example.

[ap1]

Originally Posted by LVx2

You have described the Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT.

Slightly out of budget 28k

[LVx2]

Originally Posted by ap1

Slightly out of budget 28k

Ooops I didn't make it right to the end, very dense text

[mps354]

Some Ming watches fit the bill with an independent hour hand

[eonflux]

Understand about not traveling with your GMT, which is a shame because it's such a great travel watch.
Mine has been with me to so many places.



Looks like you've thoroughly searched for options that fit your criteria set, and I can't offer suggestions that better meet those requirements.

This IWC completely violates much of your list, but this Timezoner Chronography was the best travel watch I've had that I think offers some key benefits:
- Relatively stealthy
- Time zone changing feature (turning bezel) extremely convenient, such as for flying through London to central Europe
- Sufficient water resistance
- The chronograph with 60 min counter, 12 hour counter, and flyback very useful



I had a Panerai 275 and now a 317, and they are pretty good travel watches as well, and the GMT hand is very inconspicuous, yet sufficiently legible.

[nauti1us]

I was thinking Omega Globemaster as well, but the new Oris ProPilot X came to mind - not sure if it has the quickset hour hand though?

[beefeater21]

Ball ticks a lot of your boxes. Maybe a little thick, but otherwise it adds extremely useful tritium tubes for night time legibility.

Their latest version looks the best, but be warned that it's a pre-order piece and won't likely arrive in any timely manner. There are a few other models with a quick set hour hand as well from them.

https://shop.ballwatch.ch/en/GM9100C...M9100C-S2C-GYR

chrome_image_Apr 22, 2022 5_08_15 AM EDT.jpg

[taura]

Grand Seiko SBGP009. It's a really beautiful, stylish watch that fits your description perfectly (well 40mm size but it doesn't look very large in real life). It has way less polish and thickness than most other GS models.

Also SBGP011 / SBGP013 but the dials aren't quite as nice and may actually look larger on the wrist (though normally dark colored dials look smaller).

[youthagainsttt]

I'd definitely recommend a FC world time with 3 interchangeable straps/bracelets

[dannyp]

How about the new Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole?

[JR16]

Seems like no one watch strictly fits all of OPs criteria


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Easy E]

OP, it is unfortunate that you have ruled out Omega. This particular watch fits all your other criteria perfectly, and to me is a very under the radar timepiece.

https://www.omegawatches.com/watch-o...22010382003003

[enjoythemusic]

Why not Bell&Ross, so many round watches, mix it up. You can get bronze too, tho you never mentioned bronze.

[Guppydriver]

Originally Posted by Easy E

OP, it is unfortunate that you have ruled out Omega. This particular watch fits all your other criteria perfectly, and to me is a very under the radar timepiece.

https://www.omegawatches.com/watch-o...22010382003003

Great call with this one.... I had forgotten the AT comes in less than 42

I think the GS SBGM211 is brilliant as well.

[danwang0520]

Tudor Black Bay GMT
Longines Spirit Zulu Time

[JR16]

Originally Posted by Easy E

OP, it is unfortunate that you have ruled out Omega. This particular watch fits all your other criteria perfectly, and to me is a very under the radar timepiece.

https://www.omegawatches.com/watch-o...22010382003003

I don’t think it has quickset hour function like the 41mm AT… two different movements .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[PhilLynott]

Seems like the independent hour hand eliminates quite a few watches and is it really that much of a deal breaker? My aquaterra and GS GMT have it and it's nice but not something I've ever been like thank god I saved 23 seconds setting my watch during travel last year about.

[Oyster Sauce]

Omega AT ticks a lot of those boxes; it serves exactly the purpose that you inquire about for me.

[Easy E]

Originally Posted by JR16

I don’t think it has quickset hour function like the 41mm AT… two different movements .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That's my bad. I didn't realize they were different movements. I believe you are correct the 8900 in the 41 has quickset hours and the 8800 in the 38 does not.

[Mendota]

Here's the Longines. It looks fantastic and they have a great interactive website for it. It has the true GMT functionality with jumping hour hand.

https://zulu.longines.com/

There are three different color combos - black, green, and blue. Each one has either a stainless bracelet or a nice coordinating leather band with deployant clasp.

Here's the green version but they all look great.Screenshot_20220424-230500_Chrome.jpgScreenshot_20220424-213331_Chrome.jpgScreenshot_20220425-161339_Chrome.jpg

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

[Sandpit]

Originally Posted by Oyster Sauce

Omega AT ticks a lot of those boxes; it serves exactly the purpose that you inquire about for me.

Fully agree - the AT jumping hour hand is brilliant.

[MrEddie]

You might want to take a look at a Bremont MBII or MBIII. Off the radar, British made but with most or all of the functionality you are after. I am in the same situation of not really comfortable traveling with my GMT Master that I have worn daily and around the world for almost 15 years.

[brandrea]

I honestly think you already have the perfect GADA travel watch … but I digress